A new owner will typically want to customize his new machine even before getting it home. This desire may be one of the most crucial mistakes that can be made by new owners, and will ultimately end up costing more to repair the unit than was actually paid out for the customization itself. Only an experienced rider or an engine specialist should even attempt to modify a motor to give it that very distinctive growl. Even the major manufacturers of motorcycles such as Harley Davidson pay their research personnel and designers many millions of dollars in compensation to develop their signature line of bikes. They are professionals, well versed in this type of work and know exactly what they are doing and the effect that any change will make when implemented.

The second big error made by novice owners is when selecting the right type of cleaning supplies to detail their ride. This is indicated by such snafus as using household glass cleaner to remove the dirt from the windshield. These products were not designed for use with a motorcycle and can lead to a permanent effect on the bike. The specialized material composing the windshield of a motorcycle can become discolored due to the additives that are contained in this product. There are cleaners made especially for a motorbike and other units of transport that will do this job safely and effectively. Using the right products each and every time will help to maintain the motorcycle components in fine condition.

Getting the wrong cleaner on the windshield is not the only problem that neophytes make when trying to maintain their machine. There are a good deal of other products that are not intended to be used for a motorcycle, and these could lead to some potentially dangerous situations. One such example is the use of a cleaning solution such as Armour All on the tires of the bike. While it does do a great job in removing the road dirt and grime that comes with riding on the road, it can also leave a very slippery coating on the rubber, which will result in the loss of traction with the road, possibly causing an accident. In this case, a stiff brush soaked in a warm water and soap solution will do just fine to accomplish this task. Fine steel wool can be used to get the white walls cleaned and back to that sparkling appearance.

The next issue is with the chrome pipes which are an attractive feature of any motorcycle. The finish on these pipes can be severely affected by using any number of degreasers on this area. There is a simple alternative and that is to use a mild soap solution and aluminum foil to remove all traces of black boot marks that are left. Not only will this remove the boot scuffs, but it can also retain the required friction on the pipes without affecting the shiny finish.

The last item that most newbies neglect is after the ride is over and the motorcycle should be left to cool down before it should be covered. By placing a tarp or other plastic covering over the bike when it is still hot can cause the cover to melt since the exhaust pipes are still very hot from the ride. Aluminum foil can be used again to get rid of any melted material on the tail pipes if this occurs.

It is always a good idea to use products that are specifically manufactured for motorcycle use before doing any kind of cleaning or maintenance on the bike. When in doubt, it is always a good idea to ask a veteran rider.

Clay bars have been used for a number of years in car shows and other automotive applications, but kits available to consumers have just recently increased in popularity. The proper use of claying can allow virtually anyone without a significant level of experience to remove the surface contaminants plaguing their vehicle. The ease of use is one of the most significant benefits and the process is not too difficult for enthusiasts of all skill levels.

A smooth paint finish is desirable, but certainly not easy to obtain without the use of a clay bar. Bugs, tar, and other difficult to remove stains are not going to be easy to deal with. However, the claying process allows all of the pollutants and contaminants to be removed rather than covered over. Vehicles that have blemishes that are covered rather than removed are going to be very hard to wax, and the results will not be a mirror like finish. Only a properly prepared paint surface is going to be able to take full advantage of the various waxes and polishes that are on the market, so an enthusiast should always make sure to prepare the finish first with a clay kit. Claying a car will not result in swirl marks and other damage that rubbing compounds and harsh chemicals can cause. Friction and excessive pressure can lead to many different undesirable problems with a paint job, but the clay process is easy and does not entail either of these. Any loose contaminants can quite easily scratch the surface when an individual tries to buff or polish their vehicle, so claying prior to waxing is certainly the best method.

The cost of claying a car is certainly much less than a new paint job, and it is actually even less than simply paying a professional to properly detail the vehicle. Car enthusiasts appreciate the ability to purchase clay bar kits that will allow them to do their own work, and very few materials are required. No necessary training is required, and the clay process is actually one that can be learned while attempting the procedure. Many detailing techniques can cause serious damage if done improperly, but clay bars are relatively safe and will not harm the paint’s finish.

Enthusiasts do need to realize that claying their car must be followed by an adequate application of wax or protectant, and the deep shine and luster that is provided will be durable and long lasting. Brand new vehicles are incredibly expensive, but there is no reason why any vehicle shouldn’t be able to maintain a showroom appearance. Maintaining a vehicle’s value is one of the best ways to combat the concept of a car being the worst investment, and one of the best ways to do it is to keep a car looking brand new. Claying a car is inexpensive and easy to do, but the results are sure to impress.

The paint on your car is under attack on a daily basis from the elements – mineral deposits, acid rain, brake dust, chemical pollutants in the air, and bright sunlight, among other factors, will wear it to a dull finish. Depending on whether you choose to use organic carnauba wax or a synthetic polymer wax on your automobile, you will have to repeat the process from every few months to once a year.

Waxing is best done on a cool, cloudy day, when the wax will harden most efficiently. It’s best to choose a day when the temperature is not expected to exceed 75 degrees. Hot weather will prevent the wax from hardening thoroughly. If the weather is too cold, it will harden too quickly, making the residue difficult to remove.

The first step is to wash your car. Make sure you get it thoroughly clean, to prevent any streaks showing through after the waxing process. You may want to wash it twice, especially if it is very dirty or there are tar deposits or other hard to remove stains visible. Afterward, make sure to get it thoroughly dry. It’s best to use a microfiber cloth, which won’t leave any lint residue, and will also help to prevent water spots.

You may find it necessary to use car polish on a very worn paint finish before applying the wax by hand, however this can be abrasive and possibly damage the paint. Using a clay bar instead of polish to remove dirt is another method worth considering, and is much gentler while still getting great results.

Some experts will advise that a machine polisher be used to get the best results when waxing your car, although it can set you back more than a hundred dollars to purchase one. When using that option, the machine will work more quickly and spread a more even coat of polish on the vehicle. However, hand polishing allows you to get into small crevices which a polisher can’t reach. When waxing by hand, it’s recommended that you use a foam wax applicator pad. Moisten the pad with the wax, and you are ready to get started with the application.

It’s important to use multiple thin coats of wax instead of one thicker layer. Apply the wax by hand in a circular motion, starting at the top of the car and working down. Work in small areas at a time, such as one panel on your car. When the layer of wax that was applied has dried, go back over it to remove the residue. The best type of towel to use for removing the dried wax is one made of soft, plush high-pile microfiber. Doubling the thickness of the towel will make it easier to work with, thus leaving a highly polished shine on the surface. After finishing the residue removal, go over the finish on your car once more with a fresh microfiber towel, which will ensure that all of the remaining wax is removed.

Stand back, and take a look at the results of all your hard work. It can take several hours to get your car really clean and beautifully shined by hand waxing, but it’s a job that has a great payoff. You’ll want to take it out for a spin, looking great and turning heads, and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

More than likely one of three places: trash, interior stains, or air vents. Each element has a specific cleaning procedure.

Trash

If you eat inside of your car bits of food may be left between seat cushions or underneath seats. Brush out seat tracks and cracks between console pieces with an old toothbrush. Pull out the floor mats and move the seats back and forth to ensure you can vacuum every spot.

Carpets and seats

Severely soaked carpet and seats may need to be replaced, but unless it has been hosed down or was exposed to the elements for long periods of time it should be salvageable. Place a household moisture absorber or several briquettes of charcoal on the seats and close the cabin completely. This will draw moisture out of the air which in turn will pull it out of the fabric.

For the most part fabric and carpet cleaners designed for household use can be used on car interiors. Vacuum-style carpet cleaners may leave the interior damp enough to cause mildew problems: only use these for small, heavily-soiled spots.

Don’t forget the trunk: Air from the trunk can still travel into the cabin, but it won’t be cooled by the air conditioner. This can increase odours on hot days.

Just like your hair, leather should be maintained with shampoo and conditioner. Car-specific leather shampoos are available at any auto parts store.

Spray-on protectants are just that: They only protect the car. These should be used after cleaning, not in place of it.

Cleaning the vents

If you only smell the odour when you use your A/C or heater, you have something stinky between you and the air outside. Sometimes this will also pick up odours from the engine compartment: If you smell oil check for leaks under the bonnet.

Air enters the system via a screened duct on the passenger-side of the car between the hood and windscreen. This air is then directed either through a heater core or an air condition coil depending on what the temperature lever is set at. From there the air is directed through the vents inside the cabin.

If there is a sweet smell coming from your ducts when the heater is on your heater core is leaking. This small radiator heats the interior using coolant from the engine; the smell comes from leaking antifreeze. If left unchecked this can lead to engine overheating.

Begin by cleaning the entrance duct. Wet leaves can collect on the duct’s surface creating a mildew smell.

Many cars made in the past decade have a cabin filter that removes pollen and other irritants from the air before it goes through the vents. The service interval for these devices and instructions for replacement can be found in your car’s user’s manual.

The rest of the system can be cleaned using a deodorizer. There are automobile-specific products on the market for cleaning the ducts. These need to be used twice: once with the A/C running and once with the heat running to ensure it reaches the entire duct system.

Removing other odours

If you’ve done all of the above and still have a smell it’s time to use deodorizers. Household deodorizers are effective, or you can place a bucket containing charcoal, baking soda, or white vinegar inside the car. It will take at least 24 hours for these methods to have their full effect.

I still smell something. Now what?

You have two choices.

Rent an ozone generator: These devices create large amounts of ozone which is vented into your cabin, cleaning every crack and crevice of the interior. Look for one rated for at least 3500mg/h. This high concentration of ozone is toxic: never run the machine while you are inside the vehicle.

Have it professionally cleaned: Some auto detail shops can clean your interior using cleaning chemicals not ordinarily available to the public. This may be expensive, but it’s a far cry from the cost of a new interior.

2. Use a cleaning liquid that is specifically designed for washing cars. Although it may not occur to some vehicle owners, it is actually not advisable to use dishwasher or washing machine detergent. When this type of soap is used, because it is meant to specifically deal with oils and food particles, it could actually damage the coating of the car. If you are not confident, do not use something. Consult with an expert at your local car dealership, car maintenance shop or other place that deals with the subject in order to know for sure.

3. Using terrycloth, dip it inside a bucket full of water and the special soap. Once this has been done, rub the cloth over the car in a circular motion. Terrycloth is recommended over a regular t-shirt or other item such as a diaper, due to the fact that it will absorb grime and dirt more efficiently. This process should not be rushed, as you may miss a few crucial areas as a result. Make sure that you have enough time to get the job done; washing the car shortly before leaving for an important business meeting, for example, is not recommended.

4. Once the whole outside body of the car has been coated in the soapy water, rinse everything off. If you have a hose handy, this will work sufficiently; otherwise, take the bucket you have been using to where water is available, fill it up with water that is free of soap, and use that as a substitute. Get rid of as much soap as you can, as this will reduce residue and keep your car looking clean.

5. Ask other people for help. The more of you there are, the faster the process will go. In addition, they may spot something that you missed, and this should be kept in mind.