The first thing you should do is check your vehicles operating manual to see how much coolant they recommend to use. I always suggest buying a little extra, just in case. Remember, always make sure the vehicle as had time to cool off. You should never check or change your coolant while the engine is hot! After you check your levels and get your tools ready you are all set to start.

The first step is to drain out the old coolant. This can be done in two ways. The first is to locate the flush screw (very much like the plug used to drain your oil) and remove it. If it is hard to loosen or will not budge then stop. Heat and corrosion can make it difficult to remove and you do not want to risk breaking it.

If you cannot remove the flush screw then all you need to do is to locate the hose located at the lowest point in the cooling system. This is easily removed by loosening the ring that clamps the hose to the cooling system with a screwdriver. After the hose is off, just drain the coolant into the containers you have set aside. Attach the hose after all the coolant has been drained and then add the required amount of coolant . After the coolant is added you should place the cap on LOOSELY so that you can flush out any air that has gotten into the system. With the cap loosely on, start the vehicle and let it run. Make sure you keep an eye on your vehicles temperature while the car is running. Once the cooling fan has turned on and is running at full blast you should let the car run for another minute and then shut it off and tighten the cap. The last step is to check for any leaks . If there are no leaks or other problems then you are ready to drive!

Again, checking your engines coolant is important to get the most out of your vehicle. This should be checked every time you change your oil and is very easy to do yourself.

1. The best way to start is by confirming all spots that will need to be repaired by giving the suspected area of the vehicle a thorough check. Surface rust is easily treated, but any spots that are rusted through completely will require a little more work.

2. The next step is to mask off the surrounding area with painters tape. While carefully following the container instructions, spread a solvent like navel jelly over the masked area to remove most of the traces of rust, paint, and primer. It is important to be careful when using the solvent, because it will also remove paint from surrounding areas if splashed or dripped in the wrong place.

3. After using the solvent, you will need a dual action orbital sander, or rubber sanding blocks for the finishing work. The sanding blocks are much cheaper than the sander, but require a bit more elbow grease. With either method, you will need several different grits of sandpaper that range from a 60 grit to a 2000 grit. The higher the number the finer the grit and the less material that it will remove. The ultimate goal is to remove the last traces of rust and scuff the surface area for the next step. There should be nothing but bare metal in the masked area.

4. If the affected area was rusted through, you can fill in small holes with body filler. Be sure to let it fully cure before sanding. Sand the filler flush with the body panel with 60 grit paper. When the filler is flush, or if there were no holes, then it is time to apply the primer. Use an etching primer for best results since it bonds to the bare metal permanently. Usually two or three coats of primer will be sufficient to protect the metal and achieve a smooth finish. Be sure to sand with 120 grit sandpaper in between each coat and finish the last coat with 400 grit.

5. Once the third coat of primer has dried, preferably over night, the car will be ready for paint. Remove the masking tape and blend the primed area into the surrounding paint with 600 grit sandpaper. If using a dual action orbital sander, use very little pressure so it doesn’t eat into the surrounding paint too much. Using a spray gun, apply three to four light coats of a matching paint color, wet sanding with 800 grit in between. Again, go easy on the sanding. The point is just to scuff the layer so that the next layer has something to adhere to. When the final coat of paint is dry, spray two to three coats of clear coat lacquer for a glossy finish. The sanding consists of 1500 grit in between each coat and finishing with a 2000 grit paper for a lustrous finish. When the final coat of clear has dried for a minimum of 48 hours, car wax can be applied to give the surface a protective gloss finish. Be sure not to wash the vehicle for at least a week so that the paint and clear coat can fully cure.

The first thing that you should look for is engine size. Many beginning riders make the mistake of buying a first motorcycle that is much too large for them. A teenage rider should start out with a bike that is no bigger than 350cc. Small bikes are perfect beginning bikes for smaller riders. However, larger or older riders can be fine with a bike that is near 500cc. Getting a bike that is too big for you can almost certainly spell disaster. One of the most common causes of motorcycle accidents is unprepared riders that ride motorcycles that are too big for them. Therefore, engine size is the most important thing about picking your first motorcycle.

Another important thing to consider is brand-name. Most brand-name motorcycles are extremely easy to find parts for. If you pick a generic motorcycle brand that no one has ever heard of, it can be difficult to find replacement parts if something breaks down. Therefore, ensuring that you find a good brand-name is extremely important. Some popular brand-names include Harley-Davidson, Honda, Yamaha, and Suzuki. All of these brands have been making motorcycles for at least fifty years. You can safely assume that buying one of these brands will yield an extremely easy search for parts.

Another important factor to consider, is where the controls are located. Standard motorcycles have a rear brake pedal underneath the right foot. These bikes also have a gear shifter that is located by the left foot, a clutch that is operated by the left hand, a front brake operated by the right hand, and a throttle operated by the right hand. Some of these controls are designed to allow the operator’s legs to sit at a ninety degree angle when mounted on the motorcycle. However, many controls are designed to allow the operator’s legs to extend past the center of the bike. This can allow the rider extra comfort as opposed to the traditional controls. These controls can be great for riders who frequently ride their motorcycles on the highway. However, they also do not provide as much direct control over the motorcycle. Therefore, it is recommended that new riders stay with the traditional design. In addition, some motorcycles switch the rear brake pedal and gear shifter. This can be extremely confusing for some riders, and can even lead to the rear brake locking up on accident. Therefore, it is wise for new riders to stay away from these types of controls unless they were initially trained on them.

There is another odd form of control known as the “suicide shifter”. A suicide shifter is a a shift knob that is similar to the knob found in an automobile. In order to operate on of these, the rider must take it’s hand off of the handlebars in order to shift the motorcycle into a higher or lower gear. These got their nickname due to this process. It is not safe for a motorcyclist to take it’s hand off of the handlebars at any moment in time during the ride. Therefore, new riders should stick with the traditional way of shifting.

Another factor to consider is the bike’s stance. Some choppers have extremely long front ends with very tiny wheels. This can make the bike extremely difficult to maneuver in tight spaces. In addition, some bikes have stretched-out rear ends and tall handlebars. All of these modifications should only be utilized by experienced riders. New riders should opt for the equipment that is closest to stock. This will ensure that they are as safe as possible when riding their new motorcycle.

In closing, the most important thing to look for when buying your first motorcycle, is whether or not it fits you. Pick the bike that you like, and always be safe on it.

Most cars are driven at least 12,000 miles each year, with many being used a great deal more than that. A car that is well maintained runs efficiently and can usually be counted on for years of reliable service. Car maintenance, though a necessity, can be quite costly. This cost leads some vehicle owners to neglect having routine services performed on their cars. They think that since their car seems to be functioning normally that they can avoid things like regular oil changes.

The reality is that if a car does not receive the regular maintenance it needs, its performance will deteriorate quickly. A few neglected oil changes that might have cost approximately $25 apiece can turn into numerous costly repairs that may have the car owner spending upwards of $1,000.

Making sure regular vehicle maintenance services are performed will actually save the car owner money in the long run and there are a few ways consumers can save a little money along the way too.

If you have a garage or know someone who does, consider performing routine maintenance, like oil changes and tire rotations, yourself. It would probably be helpful to have a maintenance and repair manual for your vehicle to which you can refer as you perform the service. Call upon friends and family members who may have experience working on cars to lend a hand. Make it a party with pizza and beer and the work will be finished in no time.

If the thought of working on your own car gives you sweaty palms, then maybe a little Internet research is in order. Lots of mechanics, tire shops, and oil change centers offer coupons on their websites. While you’re doing some research, also look for special promotional deals, such as a repair shop that has a package deal. You may be able to get a tire rotation thrown in for free when you take in your car for an oil change.

Like any other product or service, you can find better deals on car maintenance by shopping around. Use the Internet, but also make a few phone calls. When a specific service needs to be performed on your car, call several shops in the local area and ask for quotes. You’ll likely be surprised at the wide variety of prices that will be quoted for the same or similar services.

Once your car is in the shop, beware of the extra services the technicians will likely try to sell to you. If you know that your car only needs an oil change, then stick with an oil change. The mechanic will want to sell a fuel line flush and a number of other services which it is entirely likely your car does not need. Stick to your guns on this and just keep repeating, no thank you.

Products like air filters and burned out headlights are another thing. The service person will probably want to sell and install replacement parts immediately. After all, your car is already there and being worked on. What could be easier? If your car really does need a new air filter or headlight and you really don’t want to tangle with changing them yourself, it might be a good deal. However, you’ll probably save quite a bit of money by buying the part at a supply store and installing it yourself.

Most urban areas have a community college or trade school that feature a program for training mechanics. Give them a call and see if they are looking for cars to practice on. Usually you’ll get the decent service you need at a substantially reduced rate.

The first step is removing the battery cables and if you have an older car that has clamp style ends on the cables you will need a box end wrench, flat head screw driver, pliers and a pair of safety glasses. The safety glasses should be worn at all times when working with automotive batteries. A good pair of rubber lined mechanics gloves will also be needed when working with the battery to protect your hands from any battery acid that may be present. In Most cases the box end wrench will need to be a half inch SAE or 12mm. After using the wrench for loosening the clamp on the cable you will need the flat head screw driver to spread the connection open. Grasp the clamp on the cable with the pliers rotate it and pull at the same time until the clamp comes free from the battery post. If your car is newer it may have the cable ends that bolt directly to the side of the battery. These are usually small bolts that take an 8mm wrench. When removing the positive battery cable be careful not to touch the metal wrench to any other metal objects while it is on the bolt of the cable as this will cause sparks. Now you will need tools for removing the bracket that secures the battery to the car. If the bracket that secures the battery to the car is on the lower side of the battery you will need a deep well half inch socket, long extension and a ratchet for removing the bolt in the retaining bracket. Now you will be able to lift the battery out of place. Before putting the new battery in you will need a wire brush to clean any corrosion from the surface that the battery sits on. The cable ends will also need to be cleaned to ensure a good connection for the electrical current to pass through. Using the wire brush clean the cable ends and install the new battery. It is a great idea to have a fire extinguisher close by anytime you are working on the car especially the battery.